11 noviembre

For the globetrotting knitter, there’s much legend and lore to the yarn shops of Buenos Aires, many of which occupy both sides of the street along the 800-1000 blocks of Av. Scalabrini Ortiz in southern Palermo. I had heard many stress-inducing things about the scene at these shops. Mainly that you may not touch the [...]

10 noviembre

Great galleries we visited in some seedier parts of town: Zavaleta Lab Original Múltiple Eloisa Cartonera

9 noviembre

My favorite things at MALBA were the odd water and mechanical moving pieces from the late 1960s, which I already knew a little about from the Blanton Museum of Art in Austin. I liked Six cercles en contorsion by Julio Le Parc (1967); originally I saw it from far away and thought it was a [...]

8 noviembre

The dogs wander the streets foraging for food and attention but the cats are smarter and congregate in the botanical garden. We missed our kitties so much we decided to spend the afternoon finding and petting them. We walked the paths among plants of different regions, cats skittering among them, and a sensory garden full [...]

7 noviembre

Back in lovely and dirty Buenos Aires. Did a good amount of wandering. Some Argentine gossip girls sat next to us at dinner and ordered Pepsis and didn’t finish their raviolis. Then we went to a rockabilly bar and stayed out til 4!! At that hour the streets are still thick with people, birds begin [...]

6 noviembre, Glaciar Perito Moreno

5 noviembre

A big group of black raptors–falcons or condors–converged on the steppe and I watched them through the window of the bus back to El Calafate. Black with traces of white on wing and neck, the slow swoop and circle of flight. The weather stayed clear from yesterday evening, so I finally saw Cerro Torre and [...]

4 noviembre

It was snowing this morning when we started on the Sendero de los Tres Lagunas and soon we were on a snowy hill in the woods that was full of enormous rabbits, large and slender with expressive ears and longer, droopier tails than the rabbits I’ve known. Three, four at a time, the kind of [...]

3 noviembre

I came to ramshackle little El Chaltén to hike in the wild mountains, and even though it’s spring in the rest of Argentina, it’s still cold in this part of Patagonia. This means the most dramatic mountains are obscured by fog and weather, but it’s the same remote landscape, screaming wind, low and hardy plants. We [...]

2 noviembre

To get to Patagonia one must travel all day. This is appropriate (and really, thirteen hours is pretty insufficient when you think about it) since it’s el fin del mundo. We changed planes in Buenos Aires, had a stopover in Bariloche, and eventually landed at the El Calafate airport, where everyone was wearing fleece jackets [...]

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